We agonized over this one--these days, you're never far from fine Indian cuisine, from haute to carryout, in Mobtown. Maybe it's the chutzpa of locating in Little Italy or that we loved the owners' last venture, India Tandoor. Whatever the case, this year we give the nod to India Rasoi, a refuge of rice in a panorama of pasta. We savor those basmati grains in the fruit-and-nut rich biryanis, and as a base for the sublime saags. We can't get enough of the subtly seasoned vegetarian dishes, although we also love the kebabs and tandoori-based chicken and meats. We'll trade fancy trappings for honest, home-style goodness any day.

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