Nowadays it seems like every other restaurant in town sells sushi, to say nothing of grocery stores, mall food courts, and hospital cafeterias. Raw fish on rice lacks the shock value it once had, but we still like to get ours from the place that pioneered the stuff in Baltimore: Kawasaki. It's not just the air of Japanese authenticity we feel when kneeling, shoeless, at the traditional low tables or wiping our fingers on the little hot towels. What keeps us coming back is impeccably fresh, high-quality seafood, with intriguing offerings that appear on few other local sushi menus (abalone, anyone?). Terrific fish prepared by skilled chefs (OK, OK, plus the astounding sake selection) keep Kawasaki standing head and shoulders above the rest of the great sushi sea. Irashai!

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