Who can resist the charms of a Southern belle, especially if she hails from Charleston? In a town throbbing with high-testosterone steak joints, what a relief to kick back--albeit in an upscale, pricey sort of way--with a plate of fried green tomatoes and maybe some gulf shrimp with andouille sausage and tasso ham over stone-milled grits. We like the smooth, knowledgeable service, the glassed-in kitchen, and the formidable wine list. But mostly we like the food, which makes us wish we were rolling in dough (the green kind), so any old day could qualify as a special occasion.

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