Frankly, we're not into being pampered. As adults, we're quite capable, thank you, of putting a napkin across our laps or pouring our own wine. We don't want a server who's servile, postmodernly hip, or distractingly chummy. Great service, like the kind we find at old but newly renovated Samos, is tricky to define. Let's just call it a feeling of being in highly capable hands. We don't feel rushed. The pacing of the meal is perfect. The water glasses and bread basket stay filled. The empty plates disappear just when we want them to. We get the sense the server knows, likes, and respects us, and we respect our server's professionalism, people skills, and plain good sense.