We know it’s a chain, and with all the excellent servers toiling away at homespun restaurants we shouldn’t be giving our nod to a celebrity chef franchise in the tourist-centric hell of Inner Harbor East. But the service was so good at Roy’s we couldn’t hold its corporate status against it even if it means handing over our last remaining shred of cool. On our visits to Roy Yamaguchi’s local outlet of obscenely delicious Hawaiian fusion fare the waiters have been friendly with out being cloying, helpful without being obtrusive, and well informed without making us feel like morons—even when we’re ordering wine. And when we mentioned that we’d be sharing our entrées they brought out two plates with our meals pre-split and beautifully arranged. We left Roy’s sure we would return, and in a town with so many excellent restaurants to choose from and so few dollars to blow on pricey meals, that’s saying a lot.