Baltimore continues to be the home of perhaps the worst overall big-city Chinese food scene we have ever had the misfortune of sampling, and most of it we wouldn’t handle with someone else’s chopsticks. Fortunately, Baltimore also continues to host a precious few eateries capable of and willing to deliver more than undistinguished brown glop, chief among them Chinatown Café. This slightly drab storefront amid the remains of the city’s moribund Chinatown proffers food as close to The Real Deal as locals are likely to encounter—or at least as close to something they’re going to be excited about eating. In addition to the Sino-American staples that help keep bulletproof Chinese carry-outs all over town in business, Chinatown distinguishes itself with fresh fish (it swims around in the foyer until you order), dim sum as a daily part of the menu, and a host of specials and regular entrées that’ll never show up on any one-sheet menu you ever pull out of your screen door, we guarantee.

Baltimore City Paper

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