We don’t ask for much in a Mexican restaurant. The surroundings don’t have to be fancy, and a little grime is even OK by us—we understand, it takes a lotta grease to fry those fajitas. The food, though, that has got to be right, and Los Amigos delivers night after night. The menu offers more than the usual taco/burrito/enchilada suspects, serving up smoky moles and jalapeño-packed pico de gallo, lip-smacking lime-drenched ceviche, tender chile-rubbed carnitas, and refried beans with that unmistakable velvety texture speaking of much lard and love in the preparation. Other wanna-be local Mexican restaurateurs should eat here, and take lots and lots of notes.

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