Sometimes the simplest pleasures have the simplest names. This is one of them. Regulars will tell you the spring rolls with their super-flaky crusts are the best around, and they’re right. For something hearty, check out the masamam curry with your choice of meat. In fact, any curry will do. If you like yours hot and spicy, add more stars to the spice factor. The less adventurous can’t go wrong with pad Thai or drunken noodles, always fresh and delicious. And if the panhandlers out front don’t make you feel at home in this sometimes sketchy hood, park in the lot behind the building. Once inside, the linen tablecloths and waiters—often in white shirts and bow ties—make this casual restaurant really feel like a special night out.

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