Open only a few months, Mark Edward and Kim Filer’s spic-and-span Northeast Market stall is turning out specimen fried cakes, in three degrees of meat composition—claw ($3.99), lump ($6.99), and jumbo lump ($9.99). They glisten so invitingly from the display case that we just had to try one. Yum. Edwards brings years of seafood experience from Mo’s Fisherman’s Wharf, but the crab cake recipe he’s using belongs to his mother, Judy. And it’s a good old-fashioned creation, recalling a time when crab cakes were simple everyday food, and home cooks weren’t all funny and foodie about adding in some mustard and mayonnaise along with seasoning and parsley. Crab Cake Factory’s crab cakes are creamier and mellower than proud-to-be-dry versions and, because they’re fried, they acquire a golden-brown, ever-so-crispy coating. The market regulars have taken to them, along with combination platters with fried shrimp, scallops, and clam strips. The prices above include sides—the coleslaw is creamy and crunchy—but you can knock 49 cents of the price and go without them. These crab cakes need no accouterments.

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