The American “bagel” is derived from the Yiddish “beigelach,” which means roll, which is also what you look like if you eat too many. A lot of Goldberg’s regulars look like they eat a lot of Goldberg’s bagels, and you might even hear them breaking bread in Yiddish at the dingy tables scattered about this strip-mall joint in Pikesville. Whatever language is spoken, you can be sure it’ll be spoken loudly, and when it’s busy, you gotta fight to get your order taken (beware the Sunday morning crush). But it’s worth the tsuris: to the victor go beautiful, warm, crisp-crusted bagels, of which you’ll eat at least two in the car on the schlep home. Goldberg’s beigelach are absolutely amazing. They’ll have you kvelling over Baltimore.

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