There are many so things to recommend about Nicolas Ramos’ smashing, era-shifting new Upper Fells Point Mexican restaurant, beginning with the silky-smooth margaritas, cilantro-flecked salsa, and homemade tortilla chips. Farther into the meal, the steamed lamb and beef barbacoas impress with honest flavor, and flan is eggy heaven. We’re really taken with Arcos’ sense of place, a glowing interior space lovingly assembled by Ramos from materials salvaged from hotels and churches. But it’s the candlelit brick-and-archway slice of urban Eden out back, a “glad-to-be-in-Baltimore” niche, that makes us loco en la cabeza. It gets nicer each time we visit—a looming staircase has been removed—and more changes, like an authentic barbacoa pit, are to come. Advice: Arcos only takes reservations for parties of six or more, and the patio is in high demand on weekends. Go with a group (a mariachi band plays on Fridays), or go on a weeknight.