The really great local haunts are defined not by what they have but what they don’t. Koco’s Pub in Lauraville doesn’t have an influx of Friday and Saturday night weekend warriors invading its cozy bar area, those traveling-in-packs amateurs who buy shots with their beers. Nobody yells across the bar to have a conversation, even at its most crowded nights. And its menu isn’t just a list of the same-old pub grub, instead offering lovely golden crab cakes and ridiculously yummy onion rings. But what makes Koco’s our favorite neighborhood watering hole is its civilized 11 p.m. closing time during the week, which extends to midnight on the weekends. Yeah, if you’re really looking to tie one on, you’ll have to go elsewhere—but, then again, so does anybody else aiming for self-annihilation. And who wants that kind of behavior at your local pub, the place you like to go to have a pint, sit a spell, and then retire home at a reasonable hour.