In a classic James Thurber cartoon, two society matrons are attending a vocal recital. Within obviously clear earshot of the recitalist, one matron leans over and says, "I wish she'd go to town, don't you?"
If any one thing characterized this year's restaurant crop, it was a tentativeness--a holding back--as though restaurateurs were unsure of themselves or their potential diners. It's fine to run menu items up the old flagpole, but not having a vision is a bore.
Kali's Court Mezze, the new Fells Point restaurant opened by the folks who run the more expensive and formal Kali's Court next door, convinced us that they knew what they wanted to do, and did it. They didn't invent the idea of small plates (i.e. mezethes, aka tapas), but they've created a snazzy and warm arena for their delectation. Few things are more pleasurable in life than sharing great food with great friends, and Mezze offers up such wonderfully sharable amusements as gorgeous oven-baked oysters with feta and spinach, mouth-watering eggplant, and tender-to-the bone baby lamb chops. All of this goes down so well with the best sangria in town.
