Back in Baltimore's heyday, every neighborhood had its own crab house; all you needed for a great hard-shell haven was a few picnic tables, party lights, a beer tap, and some friends on the Eastern Shore. Good crabs didn't have to be sought out--they were practically guaranteed, anywhere you went.

Those days are long gone, alas, and as the Chesapeake Bay's once-mighty blue crab population crashes, it's become downright shameful what passes for crabs in this town. Costas Inn gets the nod for best crab house for its due diligence in searching out a steady supply of large, meaty crustaceans and supplying them to us, the happy hammerers at Costas' long paper-covered tables. Costas' peppery house seasoning (a proprietary mix on par with Old Bay), efficient old-school waitresses, and terrific crab soup are all just so much mustard.

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