When the sidewalks south of the Peabody Conservatory were ripped up, we were a little worried. Would Kawasaki get lost in the fray? Where else would we go for perfectly battered shrimp and vegetable tempura, served piping hot? Where would we get chawan mushi, the cute cup of custard packed with seafood surprises, or cool, slurpable soba noodles? There was, thankfully, nothing to freak about. The hostess is still gracious, with an uncanny knack for remembering faces, and the sushi rolls aren't half bad. Kawasaki's forte, though, has always been to welcome the sushi-shy with its selection of Japanese dishes that aren't raw fish--don't forget the golden, deep-fried tonkatsu (pork cutlet) medallions. The waiters have gotten a little grungy, but we'd like to think it's from working in the melee. Now that the scaffolding is finally gone, we know for sure that Kawasaki is here to stay. And we're thankful.

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