After being around the block and then some, Baltimore's best Korean food still comes down to Nam Kang, the clean, friendly, apologetic basement box. Perks start with the tray of appetizers dished out with meals: firm and faintly sweet soybeans, spice-speckled bean sprouts, fluffy blocks of egg custard, sweet-sticky, crunchy anchovies (don't be shy), and, of course, the inimitable dash of potato salad sporting cucumber and onion strips. If you like it hot, try soon doo boo jigae, a nose-blowing stew bubbling with tofu, shellfish, and vegetables; sullung tang, the soothing, creamy oxtail soup with chopped scallions, thin clear noodles, and slices of lean beef (kimchi dunking optional) may please plainer tastes. The menu also boasts tasty crossovers like chewy noodles in porky black bean sauce and tender, deep-fried chicken in glossy garlic. But the Korean standard rests with bibimbap--a traditional dish mixing vegetables, egg, beef, and rice--at which Nam Kang always excels.

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