A friend of ours who adores the Brewer's Art frequently makes a dinner there out of their fries and a house salad, which strikes us as so Sex and the City. (Sorry, this is Baltimore, where cultural allusions have a three-year lag time; we're planning to use "metrosexual" in 2005.) These slender golden shoestrings are loaded liberally with garlic and rosemary, but there's another flavor, a back taste, that took us a few dozen platesful to locate. Turned out it was potato. A ramekin of mayonnaise is provided for Belgian-style dipping, and it will become plain to you in no time that these fries match perfectly with the strong home-brewed Belgian-style ales that have made the Brewer's Art a destination for discerning beer lovers, and grad students, too. The only other place we've had garlic fries this good is at Pacific Bell Park in San Francisco. These are so much closer.

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