Tip Carter took over the kitchen from Ravi Narayanan last year, and his first year's worth of seasonally changing menus were jam-packed with smart applications to juicy steaks, succulent poultry, and fresh fish. If the kitchen's philosophy has changed under Carter's control, it's a subtle but significant shift toward the basics, of letting food speak for itself. The most recent menu featured a vegetable cassoulet, pan-seared salmon, and an elegant bouillabaisse bursting with so much fresh seafood--salmon, snapper, little-neck clams, and mussels--that it took some time to reach the explosively good risotto Pernod and yellow-tomato sauce underneath. Worth the wait, though, and definitely worth the $19 price tag. The Brewer's Art can do little wrong by us, so it's a definite pleasure to open the new menu and see what Carter's whipping up now.