Best Return from D.C.
We're naturally nosy, you know, so we'd love to know what really went down when Soigné closed its Locust Point doors last year. We'd also like to know exactly what happened when chef Edward Kim went off to Washington to help open up Merkado, an Asian-Latino joint. But mostly we're suckers for happy endings, and it looks like Kim's return to Baltimore to take over Saffron's dining room will give us one. Maybe they should have changed the name (a lot of people assume they're still serving that Indian fusion stuff there), and maybe they should have taken the redesign a few steps further. Small matters. Kim seems re-energized, and the waitstaff has recently added some seasoned pros.
Saffron's food is not Indian fusion anymore, and it's also not the Asian fusion cuisine that Kim dazzled us with at Soigné--Saffron now serves contemporary American cuisine. But it's freshly considered, ever gorgeous, and tasty enough to make us stop wondering how Kim got back here and just be glad that he did.
