Here's what the perfect late-night restaurant should be: The décor should be chintzy enough so you can feel at home, but not so neglected you fear what the kitchen looks like. The waitstaff should be extra friendly but not familiar-- incredibly attentive to your water glass but aware that they should leave you alone to converse with the night owls you came in with. There should be hearty, crunchy, oily, spicy things on the menu for the drunk and starving; comforting, starchy things for the slightly hungover; and fantastically delicious things for the designated driver. Nam Kang has all those things until 4 a.m., plus the lagniappe that makes a late-night place really perfect--the magical, ineffable equilibrium between the city outside and the safe haven within. Know why the people in Edward Hopper's painting Nighthawks look so glum? It's because they didn't go to Nam Kang.

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