At this point, the nice people at Dukem practically know us by voice when we call up to order the No. 2 meat combination with a side of sambusas. Dukem has established itself as B-more's premier Ethiopian joint not just by basically owning the market but by the quality of its spicy beef and lamb tibs, wots, and fitfit, all served on sturdy, spongy injera bread that takes the place of utensils. Ethiopian food is probably the closest thing the adult world gets to kiddie-style fun eating. It's best enjoyed with a group of friends all dipping in, though we've certainly gone the solo-glutton route. And a recently expanded upstairs dining room means that it's no longer a crapshoot as to whether you and your friends will be able to get a table on a Friday or Saturday night.