Gyros aren't that hard to make. Slice off a few hunks from the rotating lamb loaf, plunk them on a slice of pita bread, smother with tzatziki sauce, tomatoes, fresh cilantro, and onions. Serve in wax paper or foil. Easy enough. But surprisingly few Greek establishments bother to own a gyro broiler, so you often end up with strips of uniformly sliced gyro meat from a box. That just doesn't cut it. Never on Sunday surprised us the first time we ordered a gyro there, as our expectations are dimmed by experience. Lamb loaf cut fresh from a rotating slab overflowed its pita, spilling tomato and cucumber sauce everywhere. Flecks of fresh cilantro covered the whole sloppy mess. Never's gyros are a thing of beauty, if such homely looking meat can be called beautiful.