Savvy restaurants offer abbreviated versions of their big-menu items at neat little happy hour prices, knowing that some lushes will like what they taste and come back for more. This is a vanishing art, but Babalu Grill, which has been handsomely refurbished lately, still does so at its weekday happy hours (Tuesday through Friday, 4 to 7 p.m.), serving such tempting tidbits as plantain nachos, dry-rubbed ribs, spanish omelets with horseradish and red pepper aioli, and ceviche. All are very good. Drinks are reduced, too--we've been known to accept the two-margaritas-for-$5 offer. The handsome bar here feels well managed, cared for, and attracts a grown-up, civilized crowd. No greasy nachos served out of chafing dishes here.

Baltimore City Paper

812 Park Ave.

Baltimore, MD 21201

(410) 523-2300

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