We're slightly dismayed that we had to venture into the hinterlands of Lutherville for this category, but Szechuan House's food inspires a modest fanaticism that makes the Beltway jaunt inconsequential. You know you're no longer in chop suey house territory when the soup portion of the menu offers crabmeat and asparagus stew as well as the usual egg drop, and this may be the only restaurant in town to offer yuba (the skin that forms atop heated, then cooled, soy milk) as a vegetarian option. To really taste the kitchen's expertise, order from the "Country Side Taste" portion of the menu and enjoy atypical delights like red-cooked stewed beef, sautéed snail, and the crispy, garlicky, salty and totally addictive aromatic squid. We've even worked up the courage to try tsong chuan ban tzyy dah chang, even though the menu warns "intestines." They're actually pretty good, but can we have more of those aromatic squid, please?

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