Goldberg's can overwhelm. There doesn't appear to be an actual line from the kid who takes your order to where you pay, so you kind of just wait with a herd of fellow bagelphiles. There is a fair amount of jockeying for position among the customers, and it's noisy, always crowded, and often headache-producing, if you're used to the orderliness of chains like Einstein's or Panera. But you came for the real thing, and the real thing you shall have: chewy, warm, crunchy, and biteable. You don't have to gnaw at your Goldberg's bagel the way you do with those rawhide imposters found elsewhere. And if you really can't take the crowds, come on Saturday.

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