Plexiglas is all the rage among some merchants in Baltimore's less-affluent neighborhoods. Usually associated with liquor stores, the impregnable opaque walls separating patrons from the patronized are also found at takeout joints, especially at places where lake trout is on the menu. Chick'N'Trout, at Baltimore Street and Carrollton Avenue, is no exception, and as a platter of hot lake trout is passed through the window, accompanied by sides of collard greens and corn, we think: This is how lake trout is supposed to be served, through a Plexiglas wall. That sense of appropriateness, though, is unsettled by no small confusion over another issue: whether to eat it all, or to leave the skin. We opt for the latter, and Chick'N'Trout's offering did not disappoint. The flaky white meat, sprinkled with hot sauce, joined in our mouths with greens and corn, stopped all conversation except for the occasional "yum."

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