Yes, a topnotch crab house is supposed to be on (or at least near) the water, a little run-down, full of grizzled blue-collar sorts with heavy Bawlmer accents. Gunning's, on the other hand, is kinda close to an airport drainage pond and is in a pristine suburban shopping mall. But if you listen closely, you'll hear some of those accents. That's because old-time south-of-the-river Baltimoreans still travel to Gunning's, which was transplanted from Brooklyn to Hanover more than 15 years ago, to get their crustacean fix. The same family, with the same recipes, still runs the place, so all that's been lost is some of the working-class ambiance. And who needs that when the crabs are this fabulous? Always fresh, heavy, and chock-full of flavor, and there's rarely a bad one in the pile. And unlike some crab houses, feel free to order off other parts of the menu; we Best Of-ed Gunning's crab cakes a decade ago, and the shellfish and fish options are also stellar. Don't forget to order an appetizer of Gunning's unique contribution to local cuisine: fried green pepper rings topped with powdered sugar.

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