If you find yourself somewhere between wino, Wine Spectator, and Winehouse, Grand Cru's lowbrow/highbrow flavor won't upset your balance. It's what we find so appealing and so entertaining about this place. Even on a mild night when we could sit outdoors, we'd rather sit inside at the bar-height tables with Roland Park's cocktail cockteasers flirting with blue-shirted business guys, rosé sampler-drinking middle-classers, and bright young couples at the eyelash-curved bar. Folks here may drink martinis and Chimay, but wine is what holds this Belvedere Square bar together. It has multiple varieties by the glass or by the bottle ($5 corkage fee), and the vibe feels like a cocktail party we don't' have to clean up after.