When looking for the best crab cake in Baltimore, think blue--yes, as in blue crab, but also as in blue hair. 'Cause all around the city and county are those half-forgotten places where the waitresses still wear black dresses and white aprons, the dining room is busier at 5 p.m. than at 8, and the drink of choice is a Manhattan not a lichitini. Peter Angelos' Perring Place is one of those spots. Located in a strip mall on Perring Parkway that also houses a Home Depot, Perring Place may be old fashioned, but in terms of crab cakes, this is a good thing. If an exemplary crab cake means nuggets of crab, little filler, a dash of Old Bay, and a bit more of dry mustard, that's what you'll find here. Like it or lump it.

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