We didn't take this category lightly. We ran all over town sampling pies and burning the hell out of the roof of our mouths. But we realized, as we bit into each and every slice, we were always comparing them to Joe Squared. Mmmm, this barbecue chicken pizza is good, we thought. But not quite as good as Joe Squared's. Somewhere along the way this Station North haunt with its nonround view on pizza has become the yardstick by which we measure all others. And that's simply because its pizza is so damn good--thin but never soggy crust, ingredients that are always fresh and packed with flavor. The specialty pizzas are inventive, to say the least--we still haven't been brave enough to sample the Irish pizza--but more straightforward choices like the margherita are equally revelatory. It seems we've gone Squared, and there's no going back.

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