We like a fancy meal, but like many Baltimoreans we're not necessarily fancy people. Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman's concept for their Harbor East spot is perfect for Baltimore because it's adaptable. The large space is divided into the formal osteria (soft lighting, linens) and the more casual pub-like enoteca (brighter lights, hard surfaces, more bustle). Patrons in both areas enjoy the same attentive service and order from the same adroit and extensive menu, which offers satisfying fine dining (seared foie gras, veal sweetbreads, house-made charcuterie) alongside diverting takes on Italian-American staples (pastas, paninis). Concept never overshadows appeal and nothing here condescends. Wherever you find yourself sitting, everyone's going to have an excellent meal and a nice time.