Reading Woodberry Kitchen's menu is like reading a publication from the Maryland Department of Agriculture. Goat cheese is from Garrett County's Firefly Farms. Marvesta Farm provides the shrimp; Springfield Farms, the ribeye. Corn disappears from the menu when it's gone from the summer fields; beets linger long into spring. And while some find this listing of food heritage tiresome or pretentious, the use of local, seasonal foods should be a no-brainer and not trail-blazing. Spike Gjerde and his staff make the uncommon practice of common sense radical.

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