Getting your Trinacria fix can be a tricky proposition. Go during lunchtime, when you're likely to be hungry, and you'll have to wait in some nook, out of the way of the bulk shoppers. Wait until the rush is over and they're out of the bread that makes the sandwiches so good. So just roll the dice and hope you get that magic moment where the wait is brief and the bread is fresh. Either way, your reward is a delicious, bulky sandwich that might last two meals. Choose between a smoked turkey with briny artichoke hearts, or prosciutto, or mozzarella, tomato and basil, or the powerhouse muffaletta, or any combination of their affordable and plentiful meats and cheeses. We suggest a can of Italian soda, some olives, and few cookies . . . and a brisk walk a little later to fight off the also-notorious Trinacria stupor.

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