Why give this upstart from Annapolis the Best of nod? One word: omakase. You tell your server how much you want to spend--there's a $20 minimum--how many people will be dining, and whether you want nigiri or sashimi or a combination. The chef takes it from there. Normally, chef-selected mixes at sushi restaurants make us nervous. They are often filled with bland beginner sushi, multiples of the same fish, or whatever the chef wants to get rid of that night. Not at Joss. Here, each serving is different and veers far from the usual suspects to unexpected and exciting fish. For the adventurous sushi eater, it's a dream come true.