If you're looking for some Platonic ideal of a bagel, nosh elsewhere. Greg's tasty handmade tori stray from convention in their unpredictable shapes (all round and with a hole, don't worry), their texture (not exactly chewier so much as less obstinate to the tooth), and their flavoring (Greg's offers sesame, poppy seed, and the other usual suspects, but co-owner and aproned auteur Greg Novik is also known to go crazy with white chocolate, corn bread, and myriad nut crustings for his specials). But then again, if these doughy exemplars of the baking arts aren't conventional bagels, doesn't that call into question the very notion of what a good bagel should be? And we haven't even mentioned Greg's nearly endless array of toppings (from plain old cream cheese to apricot purée or barbecue pork) and the widest and finest selection of custom-smoked fish in the state.

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