We'll let the downtown steakhouses--the Prime Rib, Ruth's Chris, et al.--fight it out among themselves for who serves the best hunk of meat in swanky surroundings. Suffice to say, we're sure they are all real good, but they're also all out of our newspaper-job budgets. However, we'll sing the praises of the filet mignon at Peter's Inn any day. This cut of meat may not be as big as those served downtown--or maybe it is, but just looks smaller because it's surrounded by side dishes included in the price of the meal--but it's certainly just as delicious. And a good bit cheaper; most weeks, this Fells Point bar/restaurant's ever-changing menu lists it under $20, which always includes salad and garlic bread in addition to the vegetable and potato sides. Lightly charred on the outside, tender, pink, and oh-my-god-that's-heavenly on the inside, this is a steak that doesn't need Chef Karen Fuller's further touches--sometimes just butter, other times a peppercorn cognac sauce--but they definitely don't hurt either. Even better, no tie or jacket is required at Peter's, where the dinner tables sidle right up to the bar, eclectic vintage posters and art decorate the walls, and boozy country music is always playing on the stereo.

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