No matter what you call it--soul food, Southern, or home-style--we gauge its quality by the mac 'n' cheese. If it's consistent and creamy like the elementary-school staple, forget it--what can you expect from a cook who can't take the time to at least shred a little cheddar into the sauce? Needless to say, the mac 'n' cheese at this Coppin Heights restaurant is fantastic. The green beans are overcooked to perfection. The candied yams are dense and yummy. The lake trout is flaky and moist. But gut-busting home-cooked food isn't the only thing you get when you take a seat in the spartan-but-clean dining room. Run by members of the Mount Hebron Memorial Church of God in Christ, Heaven's Gate ("Food for the body and soul") offers a safe haven for neighborhood kids, meals to the needy, and an anchor for the community. But you can't get dinner on Sunday--that's the day they rest, of course.

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