Yes, yes, yes, lake trout is supposed to be served fried, on a paper plate or some form of bread, doused in hot sauce with maybe some fries. You can get it that way at Caribbean Kitchen, and it's just fine. But to chart the hidden depths of Baltimore's mysterious, maligned official fish, order the grilled lake trout dinner. Batterless and boneless, the Caribbean Kitchen's LT is a revelation (Garbo speaks! Lake trout tastes great!), a massive pile of firm, flavorful whiting (or whatever it is), liberally spiced and smothered in grilled onions, served with rice and peas, choice of veg (try the yams), and a cup of sweet, Russian dressing-ish sauce that nicely counterpoints the fish's peppery piquancy. This is lake trout in exelcis, the humble sub-shop staple raised to the heights of its exalted piscine brethren (without the exalted prices--$6 for the whole platter). Translation: It's the best lake trout there is.

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