Let us begin by saying that we're delighted, positively tickled, that Baltimore has become a town boasting restaurants where a semi-exotic ingredient like lemon grass is used at all, much less so inventively. Soigné's light, acerbic lemon-grass sorbet is very nice on its own, but when encircled with pineapple-mint salsa and sprinkled with whole rose peppercorns, well, it's just one of the most deliciously ingenious desserts ever. The earthy but delicate heat of the peppercorns tethers the tart sweetness of citrus and pineapple. We simply swooned over this concoction, and we never thought we'd feel that way about a dessert that didn't involve butter, chocolate, a truck-load of whipped cream, and some sort of liqueur.

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