If we go missing at lunchtime, look for us in Highlandtown's--we're the ones breathing all over the DiPasquale's display case, gazing slack-jawed with wonder at our options. Should we get a crusty rice ball? Some tangily dressed pasta salad? Juicy fresh black olives? Creamy, spicy shrimp salad, crowded with shellfish as big as a toddler's fist? Decisions, decisions. If you can't decide which pound of what to take home, try one of their combo sandwiches (we recommend the Old World Italian--capicola, soppressata, prosciutto, fontinella cheese, and olive tapenade on a big crusty roll), or get a bunch of little 8-ounce tubs of whatever looks good, sit back in the dining area, and sample away in the name of science. Or try the newly added pizza, cooked in a real brick oven, just as they do in the old country. Bonus: the store's background music. You haven't lived till you've heard a woman murmur Lou Reed's "Walk on the Wild Side" in Italian.

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