Remember bagels? We're not talking about those doughy, oversized monstrosities currently served by everyone from mall delis to Dunkin' Donuts. We're thinking of those small, hard, gum-cutting rings you serve with a schmear and a plateful of salmon, capers, and red onions. Real bagels don't exist in fruit flavors, and they don't get softer with age. Baltimore isn't exactly awash in real bagels, but we did find a reasonable facsimile at the Chesapeake Bagel Bakery. While a little too large to be authentic, its poppy-seed bagel is refreshingly straightforward and has the crispy, tough crust that distinguishes a bagel from breakfast pastries.

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