What sets The Brewer's Art apart from other copper-kettle emporia? Is it the ambitious and eclectic (if sometimes erratic) kitchen? The diverse and distinctive décor, from the opulently appointed dining room to the comfy, casual main lounge to the smoky, dark-cornery basement bar? The relaxed, conversational atmosphere? Yes, yes, and yes. But when you get right down to it, it's about the beer. And in a world of decent but essentially interchangeable brewpub standards--your wheat and stout, your amber and IPA--The Brewer's Art stands out with its set of characterful Belgian-style beers: the crisp, hoppy pale ale; the strong, spicy Ozzy; and the mighty, malty Resurrection, plus the occasional seasonal. And there's a glittering array of outside offerings, from Natty Boh to high-end micros and imports. (As far as we know it's the only place in town where you can get the original smoked beer, Germany's amazing Schlenkerla.) These days brewpubs are a dime a dozen, but The Brewer's Art remains one of a kind

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