According to the television commercials, McDonald's has already won the french-fry wars. Our criteria must be slightly different than the average consumer's, since we prefer the fries at Bandaloops. Like everything at the Federal Hill restaurant, these fries are more sophisticated than their lackluster kin. Bandaloops owes its existence to Tom Robbins' Jitterbug Perfume, the 1990 novel that inspired the restaurant's menu, and Kudra's fries, as they're called, pay homage to the book's heroine. Given the chance, we consume vast quantities of them in her honor. The fries come with their own sauce, which we were disappointed to learn is nothing more than a mix of Worcestershire, ketchup, mayonnaise, and spices. Somehow the result is more than the sum of its parts. The menu lists Kudra's fries under the appetizer column, and that makes sense to us. These spuds are too good to share the spotlight with a sandwich.

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