Does it seem as if Indian restaurants are popping up all over like new Donna's? The more the merrier, we say. We drool at the thought of pakora, samosas, curries, bengan bartha (the dish that turned eggplant into a food for gods), and anything that comes from the tandoor oven. While it's hard to put our finger on exactly what makes newcomer India Tandoor the leader of the palak, we'd have to cite delicacy of flavors, unusual offerings, and serene service. The fire in the lentil soup creeps up slowly, a time-lapse hot flash that warms you from the toes up. Sauces entice. Rashmi kabab--thin slices of white chicken marinated in ground peanuts, almonds, cream cheese, and chickpea flour then skewered and grilled in the tandoor--is superb by itself, but topped with its creamy, orange-colored sauce, it would make Krishna weep with joy. The service is attentive but relaxed; a sense of well-being pervades the dining experience. And no matter how full you feel after your entrée, you will find room for a scoop of mango or pistachio ice cream--why, it's as serene and soothing as the meal itself.

Baltimore City Paper

812 Park Ave.

Baltimore, MD 21201

(410) 523-2300

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