We know, we know: Get out your serious plastic for this one. But greatness doesn't come cheap, and this is a great place with a great look and great food. Spike and Charlie Gjerde do it to seafood here, so leave your meat lovers at home. Enter a world of gunboat gray and polished aluminum, where the dining levels put you in mind of the decks of a ship, and (when we're not plagued by drought) water splashes in a fountain, soothing frayed nerves. From the assortment of designer breads placed before you at the start of the meal to the dessert creations and ice creams flavored with coconut or cardamom, your lunch or dinner will be distinctive. Freshness is all-important when it comes to the fruits of the sea, and Atlantic's evolving, revolving menu makes the most of the daily catch and the seasons. You'll find inventive takes on local favorites, such as red crab soup, and delicacies from other regions, such as the scintillating tequila-cured salmon with poblano cream. No matter what you picture from reading the menu, the Gjerde brothers will manage to surprise you with what's on the plate. Their imagination puts Atlantic ahead of the fleet.

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