We've sung the praises of Attman's corned beef in these pages in years past. And why not? The venerable deli's specialty is lean and juicy, the tastiest of calling cards. But we think what Attman's does with chopped liver is the real proof of its authenticity as an old-school Jewish deli. (After all, even the Irish--not known for their culinary gifts--can deliver decent corned beef.) The lowly chopped liver, that Rodney Dangerfield of sandwich meats, that Borscht Belt punch line of a protein, can't get no respect in these fat-conscious times. Organ meats, schmorgan meats, '90s diners say, as they hoist another veggie wrap or black-bean burger. But oh, what a rich, slightly sweet delight Attman's chopped liver is--fresh chicken liver, bits of savory onion, tiny slivers of hard-boiled egg. The deli's Triple-Decker Lombard Street combo sandwich (hot corned beef, hot pastrami, chopped liver, and Russian dressing on rye) is a great way to start acquiring this old-fashioned taste.

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