Ever since Patisserie Poupon moved into a forbidding block of Baltimore Street east of the harbor 13 years ago, we've marveled at its resiliency. Sure, the high-end bakery's collection of tarts, croissants, and other delectables has graced the dessert carts of a few restaurants. But we've often wondered how they've otherwise managed to keep their storefront business standing while so many buildings around them crumbled. Now that the block seems to be in mid-comeback, we can finally (we hope) stop worrying about whether our supply of lemon tarts, chocolate "bags," pears bathed in dark chocolate, and other goodies garnished with fresh berries and the like will be cut off. Here, the sterling quality of the product is everything. Poupon doesn't give you that neighborly, how-ya-doin'-hon feel of places like the Woodlea and Fenwick, preferring to deal with its clientele in a respectfully detached way. Which is to say that, while we've always felt that effeteness is hardly endearing, this is one place that has earned the right to be Francophilically snobbish.

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