It's been a good year for new restaurants in Mobtown. As a result, competition in this category has been fierce. The Bicycle takes the crown for its adventurous attitude and absolutely terrific food. Other new dining venues, no matter how good their food, chose to tread the safe and proven path (Cajun food in Fells Point, classic French in Roland Park). Bicycle set up its neon-colored shop in an as-yet-ungentrified South Baltimore corner in May and started dishing out ambitious fusion cuisine and upscale comfort food. Besides amazingly good dishes, ranging from semi-exotic (grilled squid with tomatillo salsa cruda, yucca-encrusted sea bass) to down-home (roasted chicken with preserved lemons and the best damn garlic mashed potatoes in the whole world), Bicycle also gets the nod for its accessibility. Where else can you eat such creative, excellent food for so little? Entrées top out around $22--the middle end of the price range for other restaurants of similar ambition--and there is a list of 18 wines for $18 a bottle. Our congratulations to Bicycle co-owners Deborah Mazzolini and Barry Rumsey (Rumsey is also Bicycle's chef), and also our thanks. It's about time those of us whose taste outstrips our earnings got to eat well in this town.

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