Attman's is not for the faint of heart--literally. First of all, there's getting your food, which generally means waiting in the long line that snakes through the deli's narrow, claustrophobic front room and joining in the shouting when it's your turn to order. Then there's the food itself, a succulent but cholesterol-rich array of traditional Jewish deli fare, including Attman's justly famous corned beef. (The last time we were there, a bunch of tourists turned heel upon spying the menu--"It's all lunch meat!" one proclaimed, horrified. Fools! More for us!) But most of all, Attman's is not for the faint of heart because of its location. For 75 years, it has held down a spot on Lombard Street's Corned Beef Row, a once-busy thoroughfare that bears reminders of the Jonestown neighborhood's past and present. To the north, the Jewish Museum of Maryland chronicles the neighborhood's early vitality; to the south, the abandoned Broadway Homes housing project awaits demolition. In a city that has hemorrhaged businesses, and has proved too willing to force mom-and-pop establishments out of struggling areas in favor of cookie-cutter chain stores, we salute Attman's for holding on--for, in fact, thriving--in the face of the blight that surrounds it. Did we mention that it has the best corned beef we've ever tasted?

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