Godhead is in the details, gentle diners. What at first appear to be mediocre, pre-processed, prefrozen, prefabricated greasy-spoon french fries from a humble corner deli are mystically transmogrified to a transcendental state of palate-pleasing pulchritude, and it's all in the timing. That's the key: Even the finest pomme frites lose their joie de vivre when they are prepared en masse and left cooling in a lonely steel cage for wanton scooping and dispensing. The folks at Piccadeli's prepare each order of fries individually, speedily, with a healthy dusting of salt and pepper if you like, and then lovingly package your treat in an ethereal wax-paper bag, all the better to allow you to view the Zen mystery of simplicity itself as you commune with the divine union of potato and boiling oil. The offering is $1.35 per service. One small caveat: Demand seems to be high for these tantalizing tubers, so make sure they're not using the emergency-backup crinkle-cut fries, which get pressed into service during sporadic shortages of Piccadeli's regular spud supply.

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